Monday, August 27, 2007
Big Spender!
I just spent 13 cents on dinner - RAD! I suppose it makes up for the $10 I spent on water today.
First Days in Beijing
Finishing up my 4th whole day in Beijing, I must say it's tiring. I've gotten much *better* at navigating around without language. I am now very good at taking the subway. Taking it, however, is the easy part. Knowing which way to go without being able to read signs or ask for directions to your destination is the difficult part. Suffice to say, my feet have made up for a lot of this and they are sore.
I can also take taxis if I have the address written in Chinese (available for some things in the guide book) or if I can figure out where it is and mark it on the Chinese character/Chinese English letter map I acquired from a retired engineer who was seeking out English-speaking tourists to practice his volunteer skills for Beijing 2008. So far I have gotten to the Temple of Heaven and the Forbidden City in the way of historical/cultural sites and a host of lesser-known destinations including a lake with evening entertainment, an insane knock-off market, random alleys that I have no idea where they are located and an in-progress art compound.
You can check out all of the pictures on smugmug.com (click "my pictures" link) While you can probably see similar pictures of the great historic sites in any guide book, I would especially recommend the pictures taken at 798, the art compound. Most of the art in the galleries (with a few exceptions) was fairly bland. The "impromptu" graffiti art throughout the alleys was most exciting. Here is a little flavor of what you'll see if you have time to look at the pictures.
I can also take taxis if I have the address written in Chinese (available for some things in the guide book) or if I can figure out where it is and mark it on the Chinese character/Chinese English letter map I acquired from a retired engineer who was seeking out English-speaking tourists to practice his volunteer skills for Beijing 2008. So far I have gotten to the Temple of Heaven and the Forbidden City in the way of historical/cultural sites and a host of lesser-known destinations including a lake with evening entertainment, an insane knock-off market, random alleys that I have no idea where they are located and an in-progress art compound.
You can check out all of the pictures on smugmug.com (click "my pictures" link) While you can probably see similar pictures of the great historic sites in any guide book, I would especially recommend the pictures taken at 798, the art compound. Most of the art in the galleries (with a few exceptions) was fairly bland. The "impromptu" graffiti art throughout the alleys was most exciting. Here is a little flavor of what you'll see if you have time to look at the pictures.
"Line Up Day"
If you've been to Chinatown or out to San Francisco's Richmond District, you'll recognize some classic Chinese behavior...pushing and what Westerners consider "cutting." While we may consider these to be rude, it is very different here. No one waits for you to get off the subway or the elevator before boarding themselves. Drivers, bicyclists and pedestrians play chicken in intersections throughout the city with no apparent regard for who's bigger or more vulnerable. Walking down the sidewalk can even be dicey with bicycles and small motorized vehicles trying to get past or get ahead of the mysterious "other" they seem to be racing.
In the Chinese government's great wisdom, they recognize that this type of behavior will not show well when the world's attention is on Beijing in 2008 (Yes, the Olympics are on everyone's mind from the workers building 5 new subway lines to aggressive hawkers already selling the official merchandise for Beijing 2008). So, Chinese officials have launched a social conditioning campaign to get people to line up! Apparently every 11th day of the month is "Line Up Day" where extra personnel is dispatched beneath the ground to the subways where they encourage the orderly Western concept of a line. They have even painted arrows on the ground to direct passengers on how to comply.
It doesn't seem to working all that well, but I admittedly have very little to compare it to. However, I would encourage the government to perhaps increase the number of "Line Up Days" because at this point, I think the Chinese people need a few more than 11 conditioning days.
In the Chinese government's great wisdom, they recognize that this type of behavior will not show well when the world's attention is on Beijing in 2008 (Yes, the Olympics are on everyone's mind from the workers building 5 new subway lines to aggressive hawkers already selling the official merchandise for Beijing 2008). So, Chinese officials have launched a social conditioning campaign to get people to line up! Apparently every 11th day of the month is "Line Up Day" where extra personnel is dispatched beneath the ground to the subways where they encourage the orderly Western concept of a line. They have even painted arrows on the ground to direct passengers on how to comply.
It doesn't seem to working all that well, but I admittedly have very little to compare it to. However, I would encourage the government to perhaps increase the number of "Line Up Days" because at this point, I think the Chinese people need a few more than 11 conditioning days.
Friday, August 24, 2007
The Fog Rolls In
I forgot to mention that yesterday that Reid's apartment has magnificent floor to ceiling windows that overlook Beijing. I awoke after a brief nap and commented that the fog seemed to have rolled in a la San Francisco...Nope. The smog had merely condensed to a *greater* extent during my rejuvenation.
Fly Me to Beijing and Let Me Play Among the Stars
I landed in Beijing 11 hours and 42 minutes ago.
After getting taken for the proverbial "ride" by my taxi driver (who overcharged this fresh of the plane/boat whitey), I arrived safe at my friend Reid's cement block communist-inspired apartment (like most in Beijing). He is so kindly letting me borrow it while he tours grad schools in the States.
I cleaned up, wound down and shipped out to meet my friend Walter for a homestyle Chinese dinner. The logistics were brilliant and the tactic I will surely use again as my Mandarin podcasts have me up to "hello," "longtime no see" and "how are you doing" (none of those were going to get me to my destination with any sort of reliability). The key is to:
1) Flag down taxi
2) Call Walter on a cell phone
3) Have Walter tell the taxi driver where to take me
...works like a charm.
We had a lovely dinner catching up and then went to LAN, one of Beijing's newest and hottest night spots described in local rags as an "opulent and luxurious venue." The decor was perhaps over designed, but fascinating. Each design element was quite striking on its own, but created a bit of visual chaos when the cow skin couches, old Chinese pictures, a rhinoceros head, black glass chandeliers, gold eagle-topped thrown, etc. were all combined. Some of Walter's co-workers joined us later adding even more interest with tales of their diverse backgrounds. LAN truly seemed to be "the new Beijing" -- an international and modern city.
As we mingled and moved past the week's hectic schedule (both theirs in the rigorous world of investment banking and mine clearing out my apartment and fitting in final goodbyes), a smooth and soulful voice spread through the crowd. The manager
had told us earlier that a jazz singer was booked for the evening, but I had no idea that it would be so...well...good. I had to do a double take when I peaked around the corner to the stage where a Chinese woman stood where I was sure they had imported an African-American singer for their "world class" venue. Her sweet honey voice spread through the mellow crowd lulling us with jazz standards and mesmerizing me with each word..."Fly me to the moon and let me play among the stars..."
After getting taken for the proverbial "ride" by my taxi driver (who overcharged this fresh of the plane/boat whitey), I arrived safe at my friend Reid's cement block communist-inspired apartment (like most in Beijing). He is so kindly letting me borrow it while he tours grad schools in the States.
I cleaned up, wound down and shipped out to meet my friend Walter for a homestyle Chinese dinner. The logistics were brilliant and the tactic I will surely use again as my Mandarin podcasts have me up to "hello," "longtime no see" and "how are you doing" (none of those were going to get me to my destination with any sort of reliability). The key is to:
1) Flag down taxi
2) Call Walter on a cell phone
3) Have Walter tell the taxi driver where to take me
...works like a charm.
We had a lovely dinner catching up and then went to LAN, one of Beijing's newest and hottest night spots described in local rags as an "opulent and luxurious venue." The decor was perhaps over designed, but fascinating. Each design element was quite striking on its own, but created a bit of visual chaos when the cow skin couches, old Chinese pictures, a rhinoceros head, black glass chandeliers, gold eagle-topped thrown, etc. were all combined. Some of Walter's co-workers joined us later adding even more interest with tales of their diverse backgrounds. LAN truly seemed to be "the new Beijing" -- an international and modern city.
As we mingled and moved past the week's hectic schedule (both theirs in the rigorous world of investment banking and mine clearing out my apartment and fitting in final goodbyes), a smooth and soulful voice spread through the crowd. The manager
had told us earlier that a jazz singer was booked for the evening, but I had no idea that it would be so...well...good. I had to do a double take when I peaked around the corner to the stage where a Chinese woman stood where I was sure they had imported an African-American singer for their "world class" venue. Her sweet honey voice spread through the mellow crowd lulling us with jazz standards and mesmerizing me with each word..."Fly me to the moon and let me play among the stars..."
Thursday, August 16, 2007
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: When do you leave?
A: I leave San Francisco on Thursday, August 23rd and arrive in Beijing around 2:30pm the next day.
Q: How long are you going for?
A: Three to ten months. We'll see how long it takes for me to get sick of my own company.
Q: Don't go to the Middle East...I mean, do you think it is a good idea to go to the Middle East?
A: Yes. I will be joining an organized tour to explore Jordan and Syria. Of course, before I get to the point of committing myself to this leg of the trip, I will double and tripple check State Department warnings and recommendations.
Q: Are you excited?
A: Yes.
Q: Are you nervous?
A: Yes.
Q: How can I keep in touch with you?
A: There are many ways to stay in touch:
1) Check my blog regularly and post comments
2) Email me at jessica@jessicaheinzelman.com and I'll email you back
3) Send me your address and receive postcards from me along the way
4) Leave me a voicemail at 415.508.4157 and I can pick it up at any Internet cafe
5) Join Skype (www.skype.com), add me as a friend (genericaddress79) and we can chat over the computer for free if we find ourselves online at the same time
A: I leave San Francisco on Thursday, August 23rd and arrive in Beijing around 2:30pm the next day.
Q: How long are you going for?
A: Three to ten months. We'll see how long it takes for me to get sick of my own company.
Q: Don't go to the Middle East...I mean, do you think it is a good idea to go to the Middle East?
A: Yes. I will be joining an organized tour to explore Jordan and Syria. Of course, before I get to the point of committing myself to this leg of the trip, I will double and tripple check State Department warnings and recommendations.
Q: Are you excited?
A: Yes.
Q: Are you nervous?
A: Yes.
Q: How can I keep in touch with you?
A: There are many ways to stay in touch:
1) Check my blog regularly and post comments
2) Email me at jessica@jessicaheinzelman.com and I'll email you back
3) Send me your address and receive postcards from me along the way
4) Leave me a voicemail at 415.508.4157 and I can pick it up at any Internet cafe
5) Join Skype (www.skype.com), add me as a friend (genericaddress79) and we can chat over the computer for free if we find ourselves online at the same time
Monday, July 2, 2007
Contact Information
I will be starting my travels in China August 24th, 2007
The best way to contact me is by email at:
jess@jessicaheinzelman.com
jessica@jessicaheinzelman.com
...they'll both find me.
Check in for many adventures to come. And please, don't forget to write.
The best way to contact me is by email at:
jess@jessicaheinzelman.com
jessica@jessicaheinzelman.com
...they'll both find me.
Check in for many adventures to come. And please, don't forget to write.
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