It had rained a bit in Dali (5 hours south of Qiaotou) so we didn't know if we would be able to hike part of the fragile trail as hoped. At the very least, however, we had read that taxis ran to Walnut Grove (about 3/4 of the way through the gorge) and enjoy the scenery from a guesthouse there. The bus stopped and let us out at Qiaotou which at second glance (after the bus had pulled away) was "lacking in activity." The Chinese places were open so we were not stranded, but all of the establishments bearing English language signs reading things like "Kept luggage," "Free maps," "Hiking information," were closed. Large metal sliding doors covered their storefronts.
If we could only get to Jane's Guesthouse as recommended by the Lonely Planet. Surely they would be open and provide more information. We oriented ourselves with the map in our book and headed up the gorge access road where Jane's would be 1km down the paved road. Our (good) plan was foiled, however, when a police officer stopped us - the gorge was CLOSED!
Our options were few. The hour was getting late and we either needed to flag down a bus to Lijang or Zhongdian (both about 3 hrs away) or find one of the few open guesthouses in this desolate highway town. Then we remembered...
As we had gotten off the bus to men with a taxi had approached us. They could take us to the Naxi Family Guesthouse 5km up the gorge access road. We reapproached them and inquired further. It turned out that they could not only take us to the Naxi Family Guesthouse for 20 RMB (US$3), but could take us all the way to Chateau de Woody in Walnut Grove for only 130 RMB more. This seemed a bit much. We tried to bargain, but they insisted that the fee was fair and included a pay-off to the local police/"guardsman." We went for it.
We got in the back of the van. The tinted windows helped hide us from "the law." W were enthusiastic rebels livin' on the edge in our renegade taxi!
What we didn't quite realize was how "on the edge" we were to be living for the next 45 minutes of twisting cliff-hugging road until we passed our first boulder lying in the other "lane." The massive white rock measured about 4'x5' and provided our first hint of trepidation.
The boulder was soon followed by evidence of landslide after landslide - some bigger rocks and some fields of gravel where smooth asphalt once had been. Most slides had been cleaned up by work crews, but gave reason for concern and reminded us both of our mortality (although we dare not discuss this while still in motion). We focused on the views - breathtaking walls of rock, a lively river and spontaneous waterfalls connecting the two. We would have taken pictures had it not been for the tinted window and state of terror.
At last we arrived at Chateau de Woody - a picturesque guesthouse built into the side of the mountain and overlooking one of the most spectacular sights one sees in a lifetime.
At first we were the only guests, but two other parties soon arrived. We spent the evening eating, drinking, playing cards and soaking in the peaceful splendor which surrounded us.
It rained through the night into morning rendering us "stuck," while providing a most relaxing and grateful 28th birthday on the 14th.
1 comment:
Woo, looks pretty! I was kinda curious what the two fingers were for, until I looked at the second picture :)
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