Thursday, October 25, 2007

No English Menu? ...No Problem

Some of the best meals I had with Dave in China were at places sans English menu. It was in this way we happened upon steamed clams, delicious dumplings, delicately flavored cabbage and bean sprouts, etc. When Aeron and I walked into a packed local dive in Danang we didn't think twice until...

They ushered us through the throngs of Vietnamese men out for a Friday evening without their wives, set us up at a table in the back courtyard and handed us the menu. Focused on deciphering the Vietnamese beverage list and choosing an appropriately priced mystery dish, we failed to notice the contents of the cages that surrounded us. Luckily our hosts were more attentive to our possible western aversion and instead of just cooking up the dish we selected, they walked over and pulled out the creature of "our choice" from his cage - a dragon-like lizard measuring about eight inches in length. With a giggle and a thankful smile we declined.Instead of repeating this charade with every menu item until we arrived at the least offensive, I set off on a trip down "death row." Cages filled with all sorts of strange looking animals lined a small alley at the back of the eatery. Many were animals I could not begin to name beyond "fowl" or "reptile." After carefully inspecting every cage I settled on the only one I knew by name: chicken. A pointed finger later and a flailing and squawking chicken was being waved in my face for approval. "Yes, yes" I said knowing that I had just sentenced this creature to death. Fifteen minutes later she would be on my plate (head and all)...and delicious!After digging in to our freshly killed feast, I visited the bathroom to wash my hands. While the feathered and scaled creatures that had watched as we devoured their recently deceased friend provided an element of twisted entertainment, I was horrified to find the bathroom had a large cage containing a gorgeous spotted cat. I immediately asked our only English-speaking friend at the restaurant if the cat was for eating. "Cat? Not cat, puma...no, not for eating." Phew!
Upon further questioning I discovered that while the angelic puma was not being held for his flesh, he would meet the same fate as our chicken. The bones of the puma would be taken and soaked in the traditional Vietnamese rice wine (most closely likened to vodka or rubbing alcohol). When consumed, this concoction would "make the man strong" - a Vietnamese euphemism for sexual virility. Good thing we could read the beverage menu and played it safe with a 333 (or "ba ba ba") beer.

Along with the tasty treats I discovered in China, this culinary adventure is yet another reason I will keep exploring restaurants that don't offer and English menu. However, next time I think I'll look around a bit more before boldly and blindly selecting my meal.

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