Everything is so peaceful on Gili Meno, a small island (1 sq km) off the Western Coast of Lombok. It takes about 2 hours to walk around the perimeter beaches at a relaxed pace and about 20 minutes to motivate oneself to move from the beach side bungalows to snorkel around the reef just off shore.
During the day I explored the magnificent world underwater with friends I had met on the ferry. The coral was brightly colored with thousands of fish circling round. Sea cucumbers, star fish, sun fish, parrot fish, sea turtles, neons and many more I could not name - all creating a visual masterpiece around me. I marveled at their beauty knowing that, later, they would be dinner.
The sun set and around 7pm we met our boat. As we passed over the reef the sleeping fish below had little idea that the floating object above blocking the moonlight was a beacon of death, the grim reaper headed for them.
When we got to our destination, Dean, our fisherman guide handed us a waterproof flashlight and taught us to use a spear gun. The idea was to snorkel along the surface looking for the sleeping fish under rocks, dive down to pointblank range and BAM! spear the unsuspecting animal. While easy in concept, juggling all the gear and avoiding a lung full of salt water proved difficult. Drowning in the dark lonely Indian Ocean lacked appeal. My deep resolved to avoid that fate well trumped the competing desire to assume the role of underwater hunter, slaying my own dinner. I stayed at the surface, content to watch the locals we had along execute the massacre.
The majestic fish we had seen during the day were equally beautiful flapping vigorously on the end of the spear. We cheered and saluted as the experts surfaced with fish after fish - our job to swim the fatally wounded to the boat where they awaited their next chapter: The BBQ.
"We" caught 9 fish and took the best 4 back to our beach front bungalow for a feast. Still in our swimming suits and sarongs, we eagerly awaited our meal. At a long table set up in the pathway along the sea, we garnished our catch with sambal (a chili and lime concoction), garlic oil, sweet & sour, onion tapenade and/or the simplest sprinkling of lime. I thoroughly chewed each savory bite before swallowing. Mmmmmm. One of the best meals I've had. Anthony Bourdain would be proud.
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