"Bush Bad"

If I had a nickel for every time someone asked me what it was like traveling as an American I could fund this trip...or at least a flashy dinner at the Sheraton. Truly, however, I've had few problems. Even in Vietnam I was warmly welcomed...until Syria.

In 2002 George W. Bush declared Syria as part of the infamous "Axis of Evil" (or "Beyond the Axis of Evil" specifically) grouping them with North Korea, Iran, Iraq, Cuba and Libya. Syria was thus labeled a friend of terrorism. Memories are not short here.

In the more isolated towns in Eastern Syria Heather and I are quite the attraction. Our blue eyes and broad smiles draw crowds to restaurants where people watch us eat. We are the subject of numerous camera phone captures and photo requests (one man stopped us on a bridge, took pictures of us with various bystanders and returned 15 minutes later to sell the photographs). People joke with us in broken English (if we are lucky) and our basic Arabic. They give us pastries. They invite us for bottomless cups of tea.

"What is your name?" ...smile
"What is your work?" ...smile
"Where do you come from?" ...screech

The room drops 10 degrees. Laughter tails off. Smiles turn slightly down while eyes inquire about my politics. Some leave it there and move to the next shop passing on the spectacle disgusted by my national origin. Others inquire outright or strongly state their opinion by saying "Bush bad" grimacing or clearly displaying a thumbs down. With my agreement the room slowly starts to loosen, things warm and then..."Tony Blair?" Discussing the complexities of politics is out. Simplicity is the way. "Blair Bad," I shake my head and crinkle my nose. Relief again.

Heather and I have discussed whether or not I should just say that I am Canadian - they'd never know. The problem is that they'd also never know laughter with an American, the kind and curious heart of an American, the human face of an American - all of which transcend policy and politics. That said, there have been times I've let Heather answer the "Where are you from?" question for "us."