Tourism in the Toilet

500 toilets were placed on an open lot in Beirut. Large signs read "Isn't 15 years in the toilets enough?"* and advirtising a two week line-up of speakers, film and music events promoting peace. For the final event, there were about 200 Lebanese, 6 expats and two tourists (us) in attendance. Wanting more information about the event than we could gleem from the mostly Arabic information sheets, we sat down with a man who looked like he was "involved." A professor of law at the American University Beirut, he started with the typical questions, "Where are you from?" and "Are you working here in Beirut?" The answer to the latter typically raised curiosity at notch..."You are tourists?" In this case it evoked an even more impassioned response, "Why did you come to Lebanon? War could break out any day!" Phrased like this we realized that our typical answers fell short..."I've always wanted to visit Lebanon," "We came for the food," "We're only staying for two weeks." Writing this now, I realize how stupid this sounds. But what isn't stated is the numerous websites, travelers and Lebanese residents we consulted before entering the country. Our decision, however seemingly absurd, was a thoroughly calculated risk.

There are other tourists in Lebanon too. We've met five and seen another five or ten. I suppose it's not your optimal holiday destination right now with large areas of the country inadvisable to travel ("the south" and "the east"). And of course, you will notice many holes in the photographic account of my visit to Lebanon as the soldiers standing guard at all major and minor city sights pop out to force-delete any pictures on ones camera. The upside is the visa is "on sale" down from $20 to enter the country to free and the food and the nightlife is unaffected. War or not, Beirut is still the Middle East's most vibrant city as they say.

*During the Civil War from 1975-1990 many Lebanese sought shelter in the center of their homes and apartments. This was often the bathroom, or toilet.